I haven't done any maintenance on my little pickup for quite a while. It was hard keeping the upper radiator hose from leaking and it was starting to get kind of firm. I replaced that this morning and it sealed up perfect first time.
Even though I put new spark plugs distributor cap and rotor on the rig in the last 6 months for some reason it seemed to be idling on evenly at times.
I bought some carburetor/throttle body cleaner and decided to remove the air cleaner and hose everything down inside the throttle body. It's amazing what something like that can do.
I got the throttle body injectors sprayed down and the inside of the barrels and butterfly valves too. There was some build up on one side, so I was sure that was the cause of my idle..... Not my plugs or distributor cap.
It did smooth out the idle so I continued spraying.....
I figured the inside was shiny and clean I might as well continue getting oil and dirt off the outside. As I move from the back to the front the spring at the base of the throttle body injector unit, the engine stumbled when I sprayed in one spot.
.... I'm spraying on the outside of the unit now not in the bores. That means one thing a leak at the base of the throttle body itself.
I went down and bought a new base gasket because tightening the bolts to the throttle body down into no good at all. I figured there might have been a small piece of the gasket that had deteriorated, leaving an opening.
An air leak on a carbureted vehicle makes it run crappy at idle. Cleaning the inside of my throttle body illuminated my idle problem. That would do nothing on a carbureted car.
Anyway I went down and bought a new gasket and some strawberry recliner and proceeded to start unplugging things so I could remove the throttle body and install a new gasket.
I am a bit blown away. I'll bet more than 50% of that gasket had disintegrated over the years.
Though my truck is 1988 and obviously has a computer. Even though the air leak was below the throttle plates, the computer must have compensated for the air leak and that's why it's driven so well for so many years. Once I took the throttle body off I checked the metal nipple where you connect the PCV valve. It was totally plugged up. I literally spent 10 minutes with a drill bit in my fingers, two picks, a handful of q-tips and half a can of carburetor cleaner to open up that plugged line. It's squeaky clean now.
This is the first time I've ever worked on a throttle body injection unit.
Once I got it put back together and before I put on the air cleaner I started the engine to be sure that the two fuel lines were not leaking. The engine came to a higher than normal idle, about 3,500 RPM. Normally it starts up and does 2300 RPM for 15 seconds then drops down to 800.
This time it stayed at 3500 and did not change a bit. Oh my God what did I screw up.
...... Then I noticed the two electronic plugs that I didn't plug back into the side of the throttle body. These are very very important. One is the throttle position sensor and the other is for the idle air control.
If you think those two things sound important..... yea, it appears they are because they're connected to the computer.
I'm a slow learner but I got a torn apart put back together tonight and it's idle is like a champ.
Tomorrow maybe a new door handle because mine is currently broken. I fixed it with black gorilla duct tape but even front ugly truck that's not so cool.
Next I need to check out the brakes and I may do that tomorrow too. That's always the easiest time to check the ball joints. I know one of them is pretty bad. I don't want to lose my steering at 60 miles per hour so I probably need to check it out.
Even though I put new spark plugs distributor cap and rotor on the rig in the last 6 months for some reason it seemed to be idling on evenly at times.
I bought some carburetor/throttle body cleaner and decided to remove the air cleaner and hose everything down inside the throttle body. It's amazing what something like that can do.
I got the throttle body injectors sprayed down and the inside of the barrels and butterfly valves too. There was some build up on one side, so I was sure that was the cause of my idle..... Not my plugs or distributor cap.
It did smooth out the idle so I continued spraying.....
I figured the inside was shiny and clean I might as well continue getting oil and dirt off the outside. As I move from the back to the front the spring at the base of the throttle body injector unit, the engine stumbled when I sprayed in one spot.
.... I'm spraying on the outside of the unit now not in the bores. That means one thing a leak at the base of the throttle body itself.
I went down and bought a new base gasket because tightening the bolts to the throttle body down into no good at all. I figured there might have been a small piece of the gasket that had deteriorated, leaving an opening.
An air leak on a carbureted vehicle makes it run crappy at idle. Cleaning the inside of my throttle body illuminated my idle problem. That would do nothing on a carbureted car.
Anyway I went down and bought a new gasket and some strawberry recliner and proceeded to start unplugging things so I could remove the throttle body and install a new gasket.
I am a bit blown away. I'll bet more than 50% of that gasket had disintegrated over the years.
Though my truck is 1988 and obviously has a computer. Even though the air leak was below the throttle plates, the computer must have compensated for the air leak and that's why it's driven so well for so many years. Once I took the throttle body off I checked the metal nipple where you connect the PCV valve. It was totally plugged up. I literally spent 10 minutes with a drill bit in my fingers, two picks, a handful of q-tips and half a can of carburetor cleaner to open up that plugged line. It's squeaky clean now.
This is the first time I've ever worked on a throttle body injection unit.
Once I got it put back together and before I put on the air cleaner I started the engine to be sure that the two fuel lines were not leaking. The engine came to a higher than normal idle, about 3,500 RPM. Normally it starts up and does 2300 RPM for 15 seconds then drops down to 800.
This time it stayed at 3500 and did not change a bit. Oh my God what did I screw up.
...... Then I noticed the two electronic plugs that I didn't plug back into the side of the throttle body. These are very very important. One is the throttle position sensor and the other is for the idle air control.
If you think those two things sound important..... yea, it appears they are because they're connected to the computer.
I'm a slow learner but I got a torn apart put back together tonight and it's idle is like a champ.
Tomorrow maybe a new door handle because mine is currently broken. I fixed it with black gorilla duct tape but even front ugly truck that's not so cool.
Next I need to check out the brakes and I may do that tomorrow too. That's always the easiest time to check the ball joints. I know one of them is pretty bad. I don't want to lose my steering at 60 miles per hour so I probably need to check it out.