I moved back over to the woven seam topic..... My mind wanders. 
Stop grinning
- Thread starter highup
- Start date
Help Support Flooring Forum:
Here's how it went down. Upon experimenting with the gap between the tile and the tackstrip, I tested early on and decided since the carpet is about 3/8" thick, I'd do my tackstrip gap just barely under that, at 5/16".
I have almost a 1/2 inch gully to tuck into.... a lifesaver in this situation. Lotsa room to tuck the carpet edge down into.
I have blue tape spaced 5/16" back from the tile edge. Since the walls in the room are perfectly parallel with the tile, I am able to cut the carpet row even to my tape edge.
I tested the carpet stretch across the 18' room width and it's close to 1/4"
I had stretched the room length, then stretched the walls in width, but didn't stretch onto the tackstrip in the doorway.
I trimmed a carpet row to my blue tape line the started cramming the carpet into the gully. The carpet is pliable, so I started the cramming with my fingers and thumb.
Next I continued cramming further, rocking and pushing (not pounding) the carpet into the gully with a stair tool. Once tucked most of the way
in, I did one more step, finishing the tuck with a 6" drywall spreader...... because it's thin..... Less chance of damage to the rows. No photo of the spreader finishing the tuck.
Photos didn't appear in order, but you'll figure it out.
I have almost a 1/2 inch gully to tuck into.... a lifesaver in this situation. Lotsa room to tuck the carpet edge down into.
I have blue tape spaced 5/16" back from the tile edge. Since the walls in the room are perfectly parallel with the tile, I am able to cut the carpet row even to my tape edge.
I tested the carpet stretch across the 18' room width and it's close to 1/4"
I had stretched the room length, then stretched the walls in width, but didn't stretch onto the tackstrip in the doorway.
I trimmed a carpet row to my blue tape line the started cramming the carpet into the gully. The carpet is pliable, so I started the cramming with my fingers and thumb.
Next I continued cramming further, rocking and pushing (not pounding) the carpet into the gully with a stair tool. Once tucked most of the way
Photos didn't appear in order, but you'll figure it out.
My initial issue was the grinning. Had I stretched the carpet, then trimmed and tucked it in, any grinning was whatever it was.... Not very adjustable once it's been stretched.
So what I did, knowing that there would be maybe 1/8 of an inch of stretch, was to trim and tuck neatly. Once tucked, I would then do the stretch and push it onto the tackstrip. "Shoving" the tucked in carpet edge forward against the tile seemed to give me the ability to control the grinning a bit. That's what occured a week and a half ago when I started planning my tackstrip placement, so I just ran with it.
The video quality is high, so I made it a short one. To your right, the carpet was stretched, forced forwards towards the tile, then I pushed the carpet onto the tackstrip and released the stretch.
The left side has been stretched, and I'm about to push the carpet into the tacks, then release the stretcher.
For people that haven't installed wovens and don't know how little it can stretch, probably can't a understand why I'm being so slow and methodical
.....I'm learning here too and it's working.
I have 4 more of these tiled doorways to do in other rooms.
I have 5 doorways to do the same way, but the all fit to hardwood. The wood doorways all tuck parallel to the weft, so I don't think grinning will be such a concern.
So what I did, knowing that there would be maybe 1/8 of an inch of stretch, was to trim and tuck neatly. Once tucked, I would then do the stretch and push it onto the tackstrip. "Shoving" the tucked in carpet edge forward against the tile seemed to give me the ability to control the grinning a bit. That's what occured a week and a half ago when I started planning my tackstrip placement, so I just ran with it.
The video quality is high, so I made it a short one. To your right, the carpet was stretched, forced forwards towards the tile, then I pushed the carpet onto the tackstrip and released the stretch.
The left side has been stretched, and I'm about to push the carpet into the tacks, then release the stretcher.
For people that haven't installed wovens and don't know how little it can stretch, probably can't a understand why I'm being so slow and methodical
.....I'm learning here too and it's working.
I have 4 more of these tiled doorways to do in other rooms.
I have 5 doorways to do the same way, but the all fit to hardwood. The wood doorways all tuck parallel to the weft, so I don't think grinning will be such a concern.
Last edited:
One more short vidjeo.
..... that's my plastic knee pads creekin', not my knees
..... that's my plastic knee pads creekin', not my knees
NICE ! That’s Gotta be one of the greatest depiction’s of installing carpet to a hard surface, like ceramic or wood I ever saw besides mine
I wish I knew how to do these. I'm just wingin' it.
I honesty appreciate the feedback in any way shape or form
Guess what, you’re wingin’s Fly !
Hmm. Thought the wood wouldn't grin as much. 
Sorry to tell you this, but you may want to pull it back out. Cut 1/8”+ off , seal edge, let dry, then stretch up 1/8” and re-tuck. That way the ‘ hinge area will land in the middle of the loops, rather than in the middle of the gap between the loops.Hmm. Thought the wood wouldn't grin as much.
Option to try first and I believe you already talked about doing this technique and your video kinda is demonstrating it….. If there’s more room in the gully, you may be able to power up 1/8”, gently remove backing from tackless, ( do not pull it out of gully ) and then work the hinge point lower towards the gully and close the grin by 1/16”
…… Please remember to inform the builder that what you’re doing is not the recommended method. The recommended method for hard surfaces to wall to wall carpet is tapered down threshold’s, and all of this professional, tweaking and manipulation needs to be billed accordingly at time and material, extra up fees.Option # 3 > do nothing, it looks acceptable to me and after you and the builder walk over it a few times over the course of 2 or 3 days, you will probably say to yourself “ How did that issue just resolve itself
Nope, I knew early on there would be no thresholds. That just wasn't gonna happen.
I wouldn't need to pull the carpet out if I wanted to attempt to move it forward a smidge. There's no reason the seal the edge. It already goes almost 3/8 down into the gully as is. I added some sealer to the back side where the carpet rests on the tackstrip. I'm thinkin' 3/4" gold flat bar.
I wouldn't need to pull the carpet out if I wanted to attempt to move it forward a smidge. There's no reason the seal the edge. It already goes almost 3/8 down into the gully as is. I added some sealer to the back side where the carpet rests on the tackstrip. I'm thinkin' 3/4" gold flat bar.
An afterthought was to notch or back bevel the hardwood, creating a taper.
Two variations. An 1/8 inch notch (red), or a taper.
....no, that might not work now because of the 2 layers of 1/4 inch plywood from the floor being raised up.
....can't do that with the tile. If I did that on the other 4 rooms, also it helped, I'd probably have to pull up the entire wall and doorway in this room to make it the same.
Two variations. An 1/8 inch notch (red), or a taper.
....no, that might not work now because of the 2 layers of 1/4 inch plywood from the floor being raised up.
....can't do that with the tile. If I did that on the other 4 rooms, also it helped, I'd probably have to pull up the entire wall and doorway in this room to make it the same.
Attachments
That little buckled area i can probably straighten a little. The seam is that pattern line starting at the edge of the door trim.... IE: seam tape
Showing off that Scientific improvement brainAn afterthought was to notch or back bevel the hardwood, creating a taper.
Two variations. An 1/8 inch notch (red), or a taper.
....no, that might not work now because of the 2 layers of 1/4 inch plywood from the floor being raised up.
....can't do that with the tile. If I did that on the other 4 rooms, also it helped, I'd probably have to pull up the entire wall and doorway in this room to make it the same.
, That’s a great idea 
I found an old Wilsonart spline bit. I'll checking locally for different size bearings to reduce the cut depth. The blade thickness is ...thin.
If I make two cuts by adjusting the bit, I can make a 1/4" rabbit, then angle in my multi tool to finish at whatever taper feels acceptable.
This small change of angle might reduce the grinning by 50%, which would be huge improvement.
I'll bring some stuff and pass it by the contractor.
The drawing is relatively to scale.
If I make two cuts by adjusting the bit, I can make a 1/4" rabbit, then angle in my multi tool to finish at whatever taper feels acceptable.
This small change of angle might reduce the grinning by 50%, which would be huge improvement.
I'll bring some stuff and pass it by the contractor.
The drawing is relatively to scale.
Using my offset laminate trimmer with a Wilsonart slot bit I can create two steps on the edge of the hardwood floor. Two steps in the wood flooring edge, simply create a straight groove so that I can make a tapered profile using my FEIN oscillating tool.
The steps are made by using two different bearing sizes. A 5/8 bearing on the first step, then a deeper one with the original 1/2" bearing. To make a taper in the installed wood floor edge using only the FEIN, would be crazy risky. These two grooves start the taper and creat a guide so the FEIN can finish the cut.
I'll be using the FEIN to remove the white portion.
I'd like to make this taper in the master bedroom, the one I just finished carpeting. I will probably need to unstretch the carpet from the doorway and 6 feet over to the outside wall. I'll need to remove the two rows of tackstrip also, so that I can use the router. The tackstrip was screwed in, so easy to remove.
I think this taper will prevent the 90 degree bend that make the grin happen. Even if it reduces the grin by 50% it will be worth it.
With 5 of these wood transitions, now is the time to bite the bullet and do a few hours of correction.
The second photo sorta shows the improvement. 1/2 of this tucked in test piece has the taper, the farthest side of it doesn't. I can even move my tackstrip back another 1/6th, further reducing the tucked angle.
The steps are made by using two different bearing sizes. A 5/8 bearing on the first step, then a deeper one with the original 1/2" bearing. To make a taper in the installed wood floor edge using only the FEIN, would be crazy risky. These two grooves start the taper and creat a guide so the FEIN can finish the cut.
I'll be using the FEIN to remove the white portion.
I'd like to make this taper in the master bedroom, the one I just finished carpeting. I will probably need to unstretch the carpet from the doorway and 6 feet over to the outside wall. I'll need to remove the two rows of tackstrip also, so that I can use the router. The tackstrip was screwed in, so easy to remove.
I think this taper will prevent the 90 degree bend that make the grin happen. Even if it reduces the grin by 50% it will be worth it.
With 5 of these wood transitions, now is the time to bite the bullet and do a few hours of correction.
The second photo sorta shows the improvement. 1/2 of this tucked in test piece has the taper, the farthest side of it doesn't. I can even move my tackstrip back another 1/6th, further reducing the tucked angle.
Here's the grin I'm trying to reduce or improve. If I do them as is, all 5 doorways will look like this. I'm not happy with this look .
Well, I think I gained a little. Still grinnin' but 50% better. It took a little more than an hour, start to finish.
I wish I could have discussed this situation when the hardwood was ready to be installed. I could have asked them to make a 1/8 or 1/4 inch radius edge or a 1/8 by 45 degree bevel and in both cases, include a backwards taper like the mod I did after the fact. The mockup I made months ago showed virtually no grinnin'
I could given them my request and everyone would be happy....... mainly me
Anyway, I'm doing this mod to the remaining 4 doorways. One of those is already done.
Anyways, a little better now.
With a deadline, the pressure is on now.
I was concerned about not being able to work because the owner will arrive Friday and over the weekend. It's ok to work and keep progress happnin'
It will be interesting this hippy on a rock, meeting the homeowner from LA. Contractor days he's a very nice fella. He sleeps on an air bed when he comes up .....but now there's carpet and 5 brand new beds in the house....... movin' on up ...to the east side
I wish I could have discussed this situation when the hardwood was ready to be installed. I could have asked them to make a 1/8 or 1/4 inch radius edge or a 1/8 by 45 degree bevel and in both cases, include a backwards taper like the mod I did after the fact. The mockup I made months ago showed virtually no grinnin'
I could given them my request and everyone would be happy....... mainly me
Anyway, I'm doing this mod to the remaining 4 doorways. One of those is already done.
Anyways, a little better now.
With a deadline, the pressure is on now.
I was concerned about not being able to work because the owner will arrive Friday and over the weekend. It's ok to work and keep progress happnin'
It will be interesting this hippy on a rock, meeting the homeowner from LA. Contractor days he's a very nice fella. He sleeps on an air bed when he comes up .....but now there's carpet and 5 brand new beds in the house....... movin' on up ...to the east side
You know looking at the picture of the grin I think the gully is a RCH wide and needs to be closed up a Rch.
Similar threads
