What did you do today?

[highup]

Well here's the before and after.
Last night I did an old wrench. I had done this years ago but unless you put bluing on the metal or paint it or oil it, it's just brand new bare metal and it will rust quickly.
So here's the wrench before and after.

 

[highup]

I didn't use any lacquer on the screw part. If there's grease or oil on things it doesn't work as well because the part is insulated to some degree.
I suppose the Chrome might also be removed in the process but who cares.
If you whip one of these up because you want to play around there are some rules.
Mix about a cup or a half a cup of washing soda and some hot water to dissolve it and fill the bucket with that. You don't want to add things like salt or vinegar or any type of acid. You also don't want to use stainless steel for those four anode rods. If you do you're going to need a HazMat team to come dispose of what you created.
If you use the preferred electrolyte which is washing soda then there is no hazardous waste produced.
I found this on the beach quite a few years ago. It was just like a block of rusty colored hard sand. You couldn't see between the links.
I carefully hammered and chipped a lot of it away and then did the electrolysis thing on it.
The trick is you need to make an electrical connection and this link of chain is so rusty that the links don't actually touch each other. The trick is how to make a electrical connection to each link without defacing the chain.
I did scuff the surface a little bit to get it this far, but it still covered in pretty heavy rust and I'm not sure of the best way to continue the process. I was thinking that a c-clamp on each link would make a connection without damaging it. I used to have five or six 1-in C clamps. I'll have to see if I can find them.
This site covers most anything you'd need to know about it.
https://www.metaldetectingworld.com/electrolysis_rust_removal.shtml

 

[highup]

Oops, I forgot to add the picture of the chain.
I don't know if this came off of a boat and got washed up on shore or if it might be from a really old piece of logging equipment.
None of the old-timers around here have been able to help me figure out what it came off of.

 

[C.J.]

And I've got the shirt.

I got a wooden sign hangin in my kitchen that says the same thing. Lol

 

[zannej]

Apparently I typed a post but it didn't send.

Went to my friend's house and got measurements. He wants to add wall cabinets above the sink. He's got about 36" between the base cabinet and the side wall so he can fit a 12" base cabinet next to the dishwasher. We can probably use some scrap wood as reinforcement around the dishwasher. It needs an insulation blanket and some flashing tape on the underside of the countertop. Found a rubberwood countertop at a halfway decent price that he could trim to fit and still have about a 12" chunk left over to use as a shelf or cutting board.

For the uppers there's 8'6-1/4" from the range cabinet to the wall on the side so he can fit three 30" cabinets & two 6" pullout fillers. The pullouts are insanely expensive and not the right size, but I've been studying pictures and videos of how they work and think I can duplicate them with some ball-bearing slides. They appear to have one center mount slide on the top and another single side-mount slide on the bottom. That seems to be on the 3" one. 6" one might need two bottom slides. If it does, I might be able to get away with having a wooden center slide on the top.

We already have the 30" microwave cabinet (which is 18" deep) so it will stick out more than the adjacent cabinets. So, one of the doors won't be able to open as wide on the wall cabinets, but that should be fine. If we do it right there should be a 1/4" gap between the shallower wall cabinet and the microwave cabinet. Microwave cabinet is also going to be taller-- 34.5" tall. The others will be 24" tall (to give room over the dish rack).

Directly next to the range there can be a 25" or 24" high pullout almost 12" deep. Actual space would be around 5.5" or so with a 6" face. We could squeeze in two 30"x24" cabinets between that and the microwave cabinet. Then have another 6" filler that is about 32" tall (with face that is 34.5"). Homeoutlet sells an oak piece that is 34.5"h (it's the end wall panel for the microwave cabinet). It's deep enough that we could get get two faces and two bottom pieces out of it.

I'll have to plug some measurements in to Sketchup to design this and see how it would fit. Brain is starting to fade again though. Crappy weather.

Did I mention my friend wants to replace the carpet in the living room with vinyl plank? Twice now his baby has managed to get the crap out of his diaper and smear it all over the carpet. Last time he got it all over himself and in his mouth. Not sure how. The mother got home from work and checked his diaper- then accused one of the cats of crapping on the floor. I cleaned it up and noticed it didn't smell like cat crap. I told her "This is baby s***!" Then she realized it was all over the baby, all over the remote control, and he had it in his mouth. She screamed "What the f***!!!" As she was taking him in to the bathroom to give him a bath we heard her shout "You motherf***ing s***-eating grin baby!!!" We were all laughing about it. So, cats got to remain inside snuggling with my friend's daughter. I think the stuff my friend had in his kitchen is no longer available. Not sure if the new stuff will be the same height. We want to check the clearance sections to see what they have. I think it's about the same size as the kitchen so he'd need 7 boxes. Trying to figure out the best way to do a transition between the two without creating a tripping hazard. I was thinking something thin. You know how in stores they have a sort of thin metal border/transition between floor types? Is there a term for that?

I saw some vinyl plank at Lowes that is in stock for about $1.69/sqft. Benefit of Lowes is that we can get the 10% discount but I think it is even thinner than what he already has by a full 1mm. He has 4.2mm and the other stuff is 3.2mm. He could pay about 10cents more to get same brand (but different color) with the same height though.

Good job on removing the rust Highup. Looks like that chain is going to take some work. I don't think I've seen one of that particular construction before either. I wonder how old it is.

 

[highup]

Apparently I typed a post but it didn't send.

Went to my friend's house and got measurements. He wants to add wall cabinets above the sink. He's got about 36" between the base cabinet and the side wall so he can fit a 12" base cabinet next to the dishwasher. We can probably use some scrap wood as reinforcement around the dishwasher. It needs an insulation blanket and some flashing tape on the underside of the countertop. Found a rubberwood countertop at a halfway decent price that he could trim to fit and still have about a 12" chunk left over to use as a shelf or cutting board.

For the uppers there's 8'6-1/4" from the range cabinet to the wall on the side so he can fit three 30" cabinets & two 6" pullout fillers. The pullouts are insanely expensive and not the right size, but I've been studying pictures and videos of how they work and think I can duplicate them with some ball-bearing slides. They appear to have one center mount slide on the top and another single side-mount slide on the bottom. That seems to be on the 3" one. 6" one might need two bottom slides. If it does, I might be able to get away with having a wooden center slide on the top.

We already have the 30" microwave cabinet (which is 18" deep) so it will stick out more than the adjacent cabinets. So, one of the doors won't be able to open as wide on the wall cabinets, but that should be fine. If we do it right there should be a 1/4" gap between the shallower wall cabinet and the microwave cabinet. Microwave cabinet is also going to be taller-- 34.5" tall. The others will be 24" tall (to give room over the dish rack).

Directly next to the range there can be a 25" or 24" high pullout almost 12" deep. Actual space would be around 5.5" or so with a 6" face. We could squeeze in two 30"x24" cabinets between that and the microwave cabinet. Then have another 6" filler that is about 32" tall (with face that is 34.5"). Homeoutlet sells an oak piece that is 34.5"h (it's the end wall panel for the microwave cabinet). It's deep enough that we could get get two faces and two bottom pieces out of it.

I'll have to plug some measurements in to Sketchup to design this and see how it would fit. Brain is starting to fade again though. Crappy weather.

Did I mention my friend wants to replace the carpet in the living room with vinyl plank? Twice now his baby has managed to get the crap out of his diaper and smear it all over the carpet. Last time he got it all over himself and in his mouth. Not sure how. The mother got home from work and checked his diaper- then accused one of the cats of crapping on the floor. I cleaned it up and noticed it didn't smell like cat crap. I told her "This is baby s***!" Then she realized it was all over the baby, all over the remote control, and he had it in his mouth. She screamed "What the f***!!!" As she was taking him in to the bathroom to give him a bath we heard her shout "You motherf***ing s***-eating grin baby!!!" We were all laughing about it. So, cats got to remain inside snuggling with my friend's daughter. I think the stuff my friend had in his kitchen is no longer available. Not sure if the new stuff will be the same height. We want to check the clearance sections to see what they have. I think it's about the same size as the kitchen so he'd need 7 boxes. Trying to figure out the best way to do a transition between the two without creating a tripping hazard. I was thinking something thin. You know how in stores they have a sort of thin metal border/transition between floor types? Is there a term for that?

I saw some vinyl plank at Lowes that is in stock for about $1.69/sqft. Benefit of Lowes is that we can get the 10% discount but I think it is even thinner than what he already has by a full 1mm. He has 4.2mm and the other stuff is 3.2mm. He could pay about 10cents more to get same brand (but different color) with the same height though.

Good job on removing the rust Highup. Looks like that chain is going to take some work. I don't think I've seen one of that particular construction before either. I wonder how old it is.

And people wonder why I never wanted to have children.

 

[zannej]

And people wonder why I never wanted to have children.

Same here. People kept telling me I'd change my mind. It would be different if they were my own, etc. Oh hell no! If they were my own I couldn't just hand them to someone else and walk away. With other people's kids-- "here's your crotch goblin back" and I can leave. Doesn't help that the kid's mother has no maternal instinct and less patience than I do. I suppose I'm more patient bc I've had to spend so much time around my brother being annoying.
I still get people saying I must regret not having kids. Nope. So glad I didn't make that mistake. I have my little a-hole kitties to nurture instead.

Speaking of kitties, we named the only surviving kitten from the tortie's litter Nightmeow. He's adorable. He was sleeping on my brother's neck and shoulders for a long time and then curled up on my friend's daughter. After the baby crap incident she took the kitten to her room and set him on a fuzzy blanket.

My friend wants to focus on the lower cabinets before working on upper cabinets so I'm trying to figure out the best way to keep mice out of the dishwasher. So we don't want to get a traditional insulation blanket that they might try to nest in. I wonder if Reflectix can be used... I initially thought we could just put barebones framing around the dishwasher but now I'm wondering if we should build a cabinet around it to keep mice out of the back and sides. I wish plywood wasn't so expensive still.

I think for the upper cabinets it will be best to get the 30" cabinets first and then custom build the side pieces to fit. I found a decent video on how to build the pullout spice rack. But, first I need to get my brain to focus on the lower cabinet for the dishwasher.

 

[DarisMulkin]

crotch goblin

Now I have to remember that, I like it.

 

[MikeAntonetti]

It rained yesterday and at night. I dump this bucket to see what hits in my yard. 9.5” of water. Not sure why. Ridiculous amounts.

 

[highup]

We could use a few inches of that. I don't think we have any rain at all last month which isn't totally abnormal but we usually have a little bit maybe an inch or 3/4 of an inch. August isn't a rain month here either.

 

[highup]

Well my chain link gained a little bit but I think I had it pretty much the rested the last time I did this a few years ago. It just cleaned up a little bit more. This is probably a little more than 24 hours. When I drilled the holes to put the wire in so I could connect it to some voltage it drilled just like cast iron little tiny crumbs
I'm suspecting these are made out of cast steel.
In theory, if I let this process continue I might be able to get the chain to actually move again but I'm not going to go that far. That might take another week.

 

[highup]

This ought to be interesting. This triangular files been sitting outside all winter I think. I flipped the voltage from 6 volts to 12 volts and boy oh boy is it boiling. Being so much smaller than the chain this is going to go a lot faster.
I'm suspecting the file won't be usable.

 

[Mark Brown]

Thats some pretty nifty stuff mate.

 

[zannej]

Daris, I stole the term from one of my friends.

Mike, looks about like the rain we've been getting around here.

Highup, amazing job cleaning that chain off. I wonder if my uncle would know what it's for. But he doesn't reply to stuff very often now. He was in the navy & he's 80yrs old so he might have an idea. It sort of reminds me of a tread on heavy machinery wheels. like on a tank where it looks sort of like chains wrapped around rollers... But I know it can't be that. Not the right shape on the sides.

Been talking to my friend about the kitchen and discussed how maybe instead of two 6" pullout fillers we could have a single 12" one. Would mean we only needed 1 set of drawer glides. We could even buy one of the 12" upper cabinets to use as the frame and then add pullout drawer thingy inside.

 

[C.J.]

Doin an empty condo of click LVP this week. I get a call about 10 asking if I can help the tile guy demo a tub and shower setup then frame up for a garden tub to be dropped in. That job is only 10 minutes up the road so off I go. I get done about 2 and it was 106 out. That’s a wrap for me for the day. Got home and put on my swim suit and hit the pool. Didn’t even jump when the water hit my balls getting in the pool, the water was 94. Now I’m sippin on some Disaronno while my wife is fixin dinner. I could get used to this.

 

[MikeAntonetti]

I heard it was 108 in the shade there.

 

[C.J.]

109 right now.

 

[highup]

Daris, I stole the term from one of my friends.

Mike, looks about like the rain we've been getting around here.

Highup, amazing job cleaning that chain off. I wonder if my uncle would know what it's for. But he doesn't reply to stuff very often now. He was in the navy & he's 80yrs old so he might have an idea. It sort of reminds me of a tread on heavy machinery wheels. like on a tank where it looks sort of like chains wrapped around rollers... But I know it can't be that. Not the right shape on the sides.

Been talking to my friend about the kitchen and discussed how maybe instead of two 6" pullout fillers we could have a single 12" one. Would mean we only needed 1 set of drawer glides. We could even buy one of the 12" upper cabinets to use as the frame and then add pullout drawer thingy inside.

The view on the side of the chain has me confused. At first it almost looked like the sides of the chain were worn into this odd shape from the sprocket that it rubbed against. The more I look at it I think it's part of the design maybe for strength. The other interesting part is the end of the shaft that links to change together with this rectangular shape, to keep it from turning. Just part of the beach with owned by a fella by the name of Simpson. He built a mansion overlooking the cliff at the edge of the ocean. It burnt down any rebuild it. It burned down a second time and at some point he donated the property to the state to make the area into a state park.
There would have been logging going on clear up to the cliff's edge. Maybe it was a cat, a large tractor, or what was known here as a steam donkey. Those were steam engines bolted on to two logs. They were a multi-purpose machine mainly used to move logs in the forest.
The other possibility it was part of a ship or ships winching system.
When I found this, it looked like hardened sandstone. You could see no metal. Matter of fact you couldn't even see the openings between the links. It was a block of rusty colored sandstone. I knew there was something inside that conglomeration of sand and pebbles, so I brought it home and started chipping away the hardened sand. About that time I started researching this electrolysis method and use it to get it to where it is now.
Those rectangular ended shafts would be a hint to its age and its use.

 

[highup]

Thats some pretty nifty stuff mate.

Want to buy a used file real cheap, it still works fairly well. Being one of my cyber friends, I'll sell it to you real cheap. Actually it's free, just pay the $14.95 shipping and it's yours.

I stopped by the Habitat store today and picked up a real keeper.
I'm trying to determine the age of my new acquisition. SK started making ratchets in 1933. Everything they made was chrome, but I'm not sure if it was Chrome vanadium steel or shiny Chrome. I will have to look that up.
This one never looked like it had any shine on it.
SK stopped using the diamond and the SK logo I believe, in the early 60s although they did keep the name SK. I read that during the war, metals were quite precious and these wrenches were cadmium plated. I don't know what that would look like. Mine certainly doesn't have any shine just a really nice patina.
They kept the same patent number on these literally forever. That's another thing that makes these hard to date. They still make the same model today and it's between 100 and 125 bucks plus shipping. Used ones are $49 plus shipping.
It's half inch drive and it'll replace the beat-up Craftsman one that I bought for 10 bucks at a pawn shop last year.
This was today's $3 score.

 

[highup]

I decided to schedule a fun job today. I put cortec in a living room, kitchen, and hallway of a home a year or so ago. I went to measure up the two small bedrooms which are his and her office spaces for the same material.
They decided to leave them carpeted, but he wants the plank flooring to go into his office closet where he's going to put his gun safe.
My job today will be a 2 ft by 7 foot closet. I'll have to remove two mirrored doors and the track to accomplish this monumental task.
I just hope there's enough room in the back of my pickup for the tear out material. I'd hate to make two trips.
It's going to take longer to load my tools into my truck and put them back. Oh well, I got $150 minimum so who cares.
He's putting new base in there so I don't even have to mess with that.