Rusty get one of those smart watches and the watch might be able to check your vitamin D level for you. Well my phone seems to check everything else like the number of steps you take in a day, heart rate blood glucose, blood pressure etc etc 
What did you do today?
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I heard the story probably because of Patrick Mahomes meeting him.
Such a tragedy but I'm sure it's quite memorable for his family and others to have the ability to enjoy these last moments of his life. If someone that age died in a car accident or who are biking or hiking it would be a sudden death. When you're diagnosed with cancer and given a timeline, everyone knows they need to step up to the plate because time is now limited.
Sorry for your loss Rusty.
As an aside, I remember when a young actor named Michael Cuccione passed away a week after his 16th birthday. He'd had Hodgkins Lymphoma and struggled with it but was doing well until his family got in to a car accident. Not sure who was at fault. He went downhill from there. Spent the last few months of his life in a hospital. MTV canceled the show he was on rather than continue filming more seasons without him. I was in college at the time but my brother watched MTV and I remember they kept talking about him and I think they were doing some sort of marathon on his show but I was busy so I didn't sit down to watch.
Last night I heard the pump running when nobody was using water & it didn't sound good. Since my brother has blocked off the back door so it won't open I had to go out the front and around the house to go check. Good thing I did. Cistern was overflowing & water was almost reaching the jet pump. I had to reach in and grab the rod the float switch and push it up. It had turned sideways and jammed. The old D-Switch had been mounted to a PVC pipe at the correct angle for the rod with float to go through the hole in the lid. But the new switch the installer got couldn't mount to it. It had a bracket that had to be screwed to a surface. He caulked a block of wood on and didn't quite get the angle right so the rod had to go a bit sideways. Well, it seems the block has managed to shift over (and will not shift back) so the rod will not go in straight. I'm now trying to figure out a better solution bc the rod jamming is not something I need to deal with on a regular basis.
In the past someone suggested some sort of setup with a relay and solenoid valve. But I don't see how a solenoid would work since all it does is push. None of the ones I've seen are long enough to push the lever up while sensing water. Another option would be some sort of float switch and a contactor or controller that tells the pump to turn on when the float is down and off when the float is up. Not sure exactly what I'd need but I'm trying to find out. Would need to be for potable water.
The pump is an old setup that forces air down a tube and the water bubbles up through a pipe and comes down from the pipe trough the lid of the tank. It's a 2-wheeled piston pump. Motor is 1hp V 115/208-230. It did not list amperage on it. The wires for the pump connect directly to the D-switch that has the lever with a hole near the end for the rod float. I've asked on plumbing forums but no reply yet.
Last night I heard the pump running when nobody was using water & it didn't sound good. Since my brother has blocked off the back door so it won't open I had to go out the front and around the house to go check. Good thing I did. Cistern was overflowing & water was almost reaching the jet pump. I had to reach in and grab the rod the float switch and push it up. It had turned sideways and jammed. The old D-Switch had been mounted to a PVC pipe at the correct angle for the rod with float to go through the hole in the lid. But the new switch the installer got couldn't mount to it. It had a bracket that had to be screwed to a surface. He caulked a block of wood on and didn't quite get the angle right so the rod had to go a bit sideways. Well, it seems the block has managed to shift over (and will not shift back) so the rod will not go in straight. I'm now trying to figure out a better solution bc the rod jamming is not something I need to deal with on a regular basis.
In the past someone suggested some sort of setup with a relay and solenoid valve. But I don't see how a solenoid would work since all it does is push. None of the ones I've seen are long enough to push the lever up while sensing water. Another option would be some sort of float switch and a contactor or controller that tells the pump to turn on when the float is down and off when the float is up. Not sure exactly what I'd need but I'm trying to find out. Would need to be for potable water.
The pump is an old setup that forces air down a tube and the water bubbles up through a pipe and comes down from the pipe trough the lid of the tank. It's a 2-wheeled piston pump. Motor is 1hp V 115/208-230. It did not list amperage on it. The wires for the pump connect directly to the D-switch that has the lever with a hole near the end for the rod float. I've asked on plumbing forums but no reply yet.
Float it with Ardex
No. I just went ahead and had the virus. Much safer.
Today I finally pulled down the wall in my living room that bisects my home. 15 foot span, use to be an exterior wall so it has a roof resting on it that just so happens to be roofed in with the new roof they built at some point in the last 60 years as an addition. Added some columns down in the crawlspace to beef up the existing ones which just so happened to be located exactly where I needed them. Then I built a temporary wall and got to cutting studs out.
Inserted 2 9.5x1.75 LVL sitting on one foot posts in the wall cavity. Let it down off the jacks and kissed my ass goodbye. Well I am still here to tell the tale so for the time being everything has gone according to plan which is exciting. I have never taken on any structural projects before seeing as that stuff scares the bajeebus out of me seeing as I will be the first to admit that I do not know what I am doing. Well... It turns out that I do.
For safety sake and my sanity, I have measured the distance of the bottom plate of the beam and the sill plate that is still in the floor at the center of the room and will continue to monitor it over the coming days to make sure that the beam is not sagging. I do not think that it will seeing as I did not see a lot of movement in the whole thing as I was going along. Wish me luck.
...if no one ever hears from me again, we know what happened.
Inserted 2 9.5x1.75 LVL sitting on one foot posts in the wall cavity. Let it down off the jacks and kissed my ass goodbye. Well I am still here to tell the tale so for the time being everything has gone according to plan which is exciting. I have never taken on any structural projects before seeing as that stuff scares the bajeebus out of me seeing as I will be the first to admit that I do not know what I am doing. Well... It turns out that I do.
For safety sake and my sanity, I have measured the distance of the bottom plate of the beam and the sill plate that is still in the floor at the center of the room and will continue to monitor it over the coming days to make sure that the beam is not sagging. I do not think that it will seeing as I did not see a lot of movement in the whole thing as I was going along. Wish me luck.
...if no one ever hears from me again, we know what happened.
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Today I went and got my 100 year old mom up, fixed her hair, helped her get her breakfast etc, came home and replaced a bad room light switch and plate, and further went on to finish the "floor jack rebuild project" . I have come to the conclusion this is one of those projects that half way through you question the worth of effort, parts , and time...I still think when I am done it will be worth it and it will be one less train of cheap modern products I have to throw away periodically.
Happy Labor day y'all !
Happy Labor day y'all !
Wishing you luck because you said to.
Get into some electronics and figure out how to install some vibration and stress monitoring alarms. One that smacks you upside the head, even when it gets false alarms.
Did you get the truck done?I labored today and I'm not happy.
.....but hope you had a fantastic day today too.
Sounds like a busy day, Mark. I don't think I would be confident enough to remove a load-bearing wall. My brother wanted to take out the wall to his bedroom to extend his room when we move the laundry room. I had to break it to him that it's a load-bearing wall and isn't going anywhere.
Csason, that is awesome that your mom is 100. I hope she appreciated the help.
I went to pick up prescriptions but pharmacy closed early. Grabbed some frozen dinners for mom. She likes Hungry Man turkey stuff. I parked my truck next to another Ridgeline. My friend saw my truck and parked near it and searched for me in the store. He needed to get out of the house away from his girlfriend. She's off her meds and driving him up a wall. We walked around like we used to back when he worked in asset protection. I showed him Walmart now sells flooring (although it's pretty crappy).
He's feeling better physically but is very stressed out. His gf's family brought marijuana and gave it to his gf who will probably fail her drug test to get a new job. While we were talking in the parking lot (he was helping me load stuff into the truck) his grandfather spotted us, rolled up and laid on the horn. Friend jumped because it startled him, then screamed at his grandfather not to do that. It stresses him out whenever someone honks a horn now and his grandfather does it all the damn time.
We talked more over Discord later. I'm trying to see if he can help me find a good float solution for the cistern. I'm not sure if some of the options I've seen will work because the pump has two hots and a ground and can pull up to 230v. One of the solutions I thought of probably won't work because it only goes up to 220v and I don't think the wire is heavy enough gauge. Plus it would require adding some sort of plug to the pump. So, I will probably have to go with some sort of direct contact water sensor and a contactor/relay or a cable float and a contactor/relay.
I helped my brother hook up his lumbar cushion underneath the slip cover (which was more work than it sounds).
I ordered a new laptop for Mom. It's better than my newest laptop and was a lot cheaper. Big labor day sale so the upgrade to 16Gb 3200Hz RAM was only $30, free mouse, free mouse pad, $50 gift card, free upgrade to 1tb ssd (from 500gb), free shipping, and I found a 5% off coupon. She should get an additional 5% rebate for ordering the slow delivery. It only weighs 5.5lbs. Her current Alienware laptop weighs 20lbs and is a royal pain to move around. She can sell or give the old one back to my friend.
Csason, that is awesome that your mom is 100. I hope she appreciated the help.
I went to pick up prescriptions but pharmacy closed early. Grabbed some frozen dinners for mom. She likes Hungry Man turkey stuff. I parked my truck next to another Ridgeline. My friend saw my truck and parked near it and searched for me in the store. He needed to get out of the house away from his girlfriend. She's off her meds and driving him up a wall. We walked around like we used to back when he worked in asset protection. I showed him Walmart now sells flooring (although it's pretty crappy).
He's feeling better physically but is very stressed out. His gf's family brought marijuana and gave it to his gf who will probably fail her drug test to get a new job. While we were talking in the parking lot (he was helping me load stuff into the truck) his grandfather spotted us, rolled up and laid on the horn. Friend jumped because it startled him, then screamed at his grandfather not to do that. It stresses him out whenever someone honks a horn now and his grandfather does it all the damn time.
We talked more over Discord later. I'm trying to see if he can help me find a good float solution for the cistern. I'm not sure if some of the options I've seen will work because the pump has two hots and a ground and can pull up to 230v. One of the solutions I thought of probably won't work because it only goes up to 220v and I don't think the wire is heavy enough gauge. Plus it would require adding some sort of plug to the pump. So, I will probably have to go with some sort of direct contact water sensor and a contactor/relay or a cable float and a contactor/relay.
I helped my brother hook up his lumbar cushion underneath the slip cover (which was more work than it sounds).
I ordered a new laptop for Mom. It's better than my newest laptop and was a lot cheaper. Big labor day sale so the upgrade to 16Gb 3200Hz RAM was only $30, free mouse, free mouse pad, $50 gift card, free upgrade to 1tb ssd (from 500gb), free shipping, and I found a 5% off coupon. She should get an additional 5% rebate for ordering the slow delivery. It only weighs 5.5lbs. Her current Alienware laptop weighs 20lbs and is a royal pain to move around. She can sell or give the old one back to my friend.
It's running fine. ....well it still has idle issues. I cleaned the idle air control valve and it seemed to idle better, the went back to erratic idles. Usually, highet than normal.
I need a new one. I'm learning things, that's for sure .
The intake leak is gone, but there was also a head gasket leak at that same point on the back of the head
I flushed the coolant numerous times, because I am going to put in a head gasket sealer. It's $67 bucks and needs a glycol free environment to work. You have to run the engine at idle for 50 minutes straight without the thermostat installed. It's some kind of heat activated polymer.
I installed mechanical water temp gauge, then the engine would not start
. The electric thermostat sensor talks to the computer. Without it, the engine won't start.The sensor is plugged in and just laying in the manifold......... and somehow, it's reading close to normal.
I have the water temp, oil pressure and volt guages installed an it looks pretty good. I don't have their lights hooked up yet. I have temporarily connected the volt meter to the battery where it reads true. I tried another hot source and it reads .3 lower. The volt guage is powered temporarily via a switch. Obviously I can't leave it connected to the juice 24/7
I have things to work out, but it's usable.
So, head sealer, IAC valve and finish up the guage details and I ought to be good for a while.
A lot of time and money recently for a POS truck.
It's time for a fuel filter replacement and I've never peeked at the rear brakes.
Sure they will bite me before the year is over.
You need your van back
I spent three bucks on a Powerball this week. I'll let you know tomorrow night.
...oh, let's cut to the chase. I didn't win again.
I hope you can get things sorted with your truck highup. The price of newer vehicles (even used) these days is way too high. I do like to cross-reference cargurus, autotrader, and cars dot com to look for vehicle sales. FB marketplace has too many private sellers who will sell absolute junkers and lie about it. Of course, dealerships will do the same.
I'm starting to make some progress on figuring out how to set up a cable float in my cistern. Turns out I might not even need to put any sort of rod/pipe down to hold the float if I use a weight rated for potable water. The seller of one of the floats told me it would work with my specific pump but I would need to wire it through a contactor. A house wiring site said I should first run the wires through an MCB (mini circuit breaker) with the ground going directly to the pump. My friend said it looks like my pump has two hots and a ground (although I'm not sure how to tell- I'll have to ask him later). The hot & neutral from the power should come out of the MCB and go to the contactor. I will need to see more specifics on exactly how to wire it, but it looks like the hot wire comes out of the MCB on the left and then connects to the top right of the contactor and then same color wire goes from one spot on the top of the contactor to another (I think exact location depends on the particular contactor0. and the neutral wire comes out of the right side of the MCB and goes more to the left right on the contactor. Weirdly enough, a photo from Ali-express filled in details I couldn't visualize from drawings.
These are the 3 diagrams:
Youtube video diagram (not sure if it was for US)
Home wiring website diagram
Ali Express diagram
I believe the brown wire on the aliexpress one is the equivalent of the red wire on the float I found on Amazon. Now if I can just get the wires straight in the pump because the colors are all different. House electric one had something about using a multimeter to check stuff.
House wiring site had this instruction:
So, now I need to figure out what contactor and MCB to get (I could probably get away without an MCB but it apparently protects the system from overload-- which might stop the fried wires situation I kept getting before we changed to larger awg. I'm thinking of getting waterproof wire connectors (metal sleeve you crimp down on the wires once they are inserted and then put a plastic sleeve over top and shrink wrap (or I might just wrap it in electrical tape because I don't intend to submerge it). As for the contactor and MCB they don't really need to pull more than 13amps but needs to be high voltage (at least 230amps). I need to find the right kind and then figure out where and how to mount them. The roof is leaky, but I might be able to put them inside weather-proof gang boxes somehow.
I'm starting to make some progress on figuring out how to set up a cable float in my cistern. Turns out I might not even need to put any sort of rod/pipe down to hold the float if I use a weight rated for potable water. The seller of one of the floats told me it would work with my specific pump but I would need to wire it through a contactor. A house wiring site said I should first run the wires through an MCB (mini circuit breaker) with the ground going directly to the pump. My friend said it looks like my pump has two hots and a ground (although I'm not sure how to tell- I'll have to ask him later). The hot & neutral from the power should come out of the MCB and go to the contactor. I will need to see more specifics on exactly how to wire it, but it looks like the hot wire comes out of the MCB on the left and then connects to the top right of the contactor and then same color wire goes from one spot on the top of the contactor to another (I think exact location depends on the particular contactor0. and the neutral wire comes out of the right side of the MCB and goes more to the left right on the contactor. Weirdly enough, a photo from Ali-express filled in details I couldn't visualize from drawings.
These are the 3 diagrams:
Youtube video diagram (not sure if it was for US)
Home wiring website diagram
Ali Express diagram
I believe the brown wire on the aliexpress one is the equivalent of the red wire on the float I found on Amazon. Now if I can just get the wires straight in the pump because the colors are all different. House electric one had something about using a multimeter to check stuff.
House wiring site had this instruction:
Float Switch Working :
We will connect miniature circuit breaker (mcb) which automatically switches off electrical circuit during an abnormal condition of the network means in overload condition as well as a faulty condition with live and neutral wire at input. Connect the output of the mcb with the contactor input. Magnetic Contactor is for lossy magnetic flow generated with current in winding of such devices as transformer, throttles, magnetic cartridges filters and circuit. Output of contactor is connected with the motor. Connect the wire of the float switch with the neutral wire. Connect the L1 of the contactor with the A1. Connect the blue wire of the float switch with the A2 of the contactor.So, now I need to figure out what contactor and MCB to get (I could probably get away without an MCB but it apparently protects the system from overload-- which might stop the fried wires situation I kept getting before we changed to larger awg. I'm thinking of getting waterproof wire connectors (metal sleeve you crimp down on the wires once they are inserted and then put a plastic sleeve over top and shrink wrap (or I might just wrap it in electrical tape because I don't intend to submerge it). As for the contactor and MCB they don't really need to pull more than 13amps but needs to be high voltage (at least 230amps). I need to find the right kind and then figure out where and how to mount them. The roof is leaky, but I might be able to put them inside weather-proof gang boxes somehow.
So, a pump expert said I don't need the MCB. Said I can just go directly to the contactor. I am still trying to narrow down the one I want to get. I think I want a rail mount one that can be mounted inside of a weatherproof box. Someone suggested an alarm that would go off if the water levels got too high and pump didn't work, but I'm not sure how that would work and I wouldn't hear it unless the alarm sounded in the house near my room.
Still trying to decide if a 13A pump is sufficient. Someone said if it pulls about 6A at 230V it could do 1hp. I believe the 12.2A is for 115V. But I don't know how the thing is set. Decisions decisions.
My toilet spit up a bit when I flushed it. Could have been because my brother flushed a wet wipe, but just in case I remembered we're overdue to have the septic tank drained. Supposed to be every 7 years but it's been 9. The guy who drains tanks was always unprofessional so I didn't like talking to him. Finally called this morning and found out he died a year ago but his business is still going. It will be ~$650 to have the tank drained. It was $240 last time-- but it was a 500 gallon tank and the new one is 1000gallons.
Just got a spam call. LOL. I answer "<surname>'s Mortuary". And a fake-ish sounding voice said "Hello, this is Tom *somethingIdon'tremember* How are you today?" Me: "This is <surname>'s Mortuary. How may I help you? and he hung up.
Still trying to decide if a 13A pump is sufficient. Someone said if it pulls about 6A at 230V it could do 1hp. I believe the 12.2A is for 115V. But I don't know how the thing is set. Decisions decisions.
My toilet spit up a bit when I flushed it. Could have been because my brother flushed a wet wipe, but just in case I remembered we're overdue to have the septic tank drained. Supposed to be every 7 years but it's been 9. The guy who drains tanks was always unprofessional so I didn't like talking to him. Finally called this morning and found out he died a year ago but his business is still going. It will be ~$650 to have the tank drained. It was $240 last time-- but it was a 500 gallon tank and the new one is 1000gallons.
Just got a spam call. LOL. I answer "<surname>'s Mortuary". And a fake-ish sounding voice said "Hello, this is Tom *somethingIdon'tremember* How are you today?" Me: "This is <surname>'s Mortuary. How may I help you? and he hung up.
There's a bunch of wire dangling underneath that's for the speakers. At some point I'll get a radio back in there but I have to make a console for it first. It's going to look messy for a while but then again the whole truck is a mess.
Tho it doesn't look like a factory job, it came out well and I'm happy with it. There's still a piece of trim that I need to put on the bottom to match the lower curve of the dash. Previously the part was the ashtray but I need to find a way to mount just the face of it on and not the actual ashtray unit and brackets.
Tho it doesn't look like a factory job, it came out well and I'm happy with it. There's still a piece of trim that I need to put on the bottom to match the lower curve of the dash. Previously the part was the ashtray but I need to find a way to mount just the face of it on and not the actual ashtray unit and brackets.
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There's a bunch of wire dangling underneath that's for the speakers. At some point I'll get a radio back in there but I have to make a console for it first. It's going to look messy for a while but then again the whole truck is a mess.
Tho it doesn't look like a factory job, it came out well and I'm happy with it. There's still a piece of trim that I need to put on the bottom to match the lower curve of the dash. Previously the part was the ashtray but I need to find a way to mount just the face of it on and not the actual ashtray unit and brackets.
What’s up with the crooked water gauge? Or is that on purpose so the needle sticks straight up?
I decided that instead of looking over and staring at the gauge to put the needles straight up so when you glance briefly at it if it's pointed straight up it's where it's supposed to be. Don't race car drivers do stuff like that.
My truck is now a NASCAR truck. 160 raw horsepower. grrrrr!
